A tutorial on how to use the module, explanation of all three pots, and with demonstrations. This module is dual role.

To elaborate on setting OK indicator with resistors… If you were to set the voltage to 4.2V, and limit the current to 1A, and short the output with a 100ohm resistor, this should draw a current of 42MA. If you then turn the middle pot until the LED turns off/on, his may then set the OK LED to 42MA. When you then remove the resistor and apply the battery, it may indicate when the battery draws less than 42MA. I’ve not tested this though.

Thanks to Karl Ng for requesting this video. 🙂


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21 thoughts on “TUTORIAL: About & How to use a Cheap LM2596S Buck Converter / Battery Charger Module – Arduino”

  • The annoying thing with this module is that it seems not switching off the output when the current threshold is reached. So a li ion battery will continue to be charged unless you unplug it manually. As far as I know, this is not good neither safe for li ion batteries. Can we modify the circuit to enable this auto cut off feature?!

  • That middle pot on mine is for charging off a car battery and you set it to stop draining the car battery before it's dead for example 11v regardless if your 4.2v, 8.4v or even 12.6v battery pack is fully charged or not. I have a bunch of these including buck/boost and they all do the same plus you can charge a 24v off of a 12v battery using this method, but this could have a different function, I don't know and that's for charging off a larger battery, but if you're using this as a power supply it may have a different function or no use at all. Lithium cells don't like a float charge. It's normal and typical for these converters to automatically terminate the charge of voltage and current once finished. Maybe this one is used for the LiPo cell if it drains down to 2.8v or 3v to restart the charge cycle, and if you can heatsink that chip it will allow for say a 3amp output, just a guess.

  • Rodrigo Fernandez says:

    You are assuming too many things, without actually measuring them . The module´s purpose is to charge with constant current between a maximum and minimum battery voltage. Then maintain a floating voltage.

  • VideoFlyer10 says:

    A few corrections that are posted on the Bangood and AliExpress listings, and are reflected on your video:

    1. The protection rectifier (labeled M4) is a simple silicon rectifier rated at 1 Amp (max recurrent reverse voltage = 400V), and protects all but the input capacitor. So, if connected with reverse voltage, the input capacitor will blow, but the rest of the circuit will be saved.
    2. There is a limiting factor to the input voltage. The websites indicate a maximum input voltage of 35V. However, the LM78L05 regulator that powers the LM358 has a maximum input voltage of 30V, and is connected directly to the safe side of the protection rectifier. Therefore, the module input voltage range must be 7-30V, as the minimum voltage for that regulator to operate is 7V.

  • NextinWeb Malayalam says:

    Can I get fixed "12V" output from 14-20V varying solar panel input using this ?
    The plan is to use 18650 batteries (total 6, 3 in series) in series, attached to a balanced charger.

  • Thanks for that! I ordered 5 of them and they seem to be fine for controlling the water pump on an aquarium and the brightness of LEDs. Good to find useful information about it – couldn't figure out what the middle one did!

  • Ricardo Giles says:

    Hi, Antony. If i need to charge 3 batteries 18650 with series connection (4,2V x 3 = 12,6V). Could it works? The charge will be balanced in each battery?

  • for setting the cutout amps, the limmiter , the middle screw
    set your last screw to the value you want your mid potentiometer to be
    then set the mid one to that value, when the leds switch you know
    then set the last potentio for max current to where you want it

  • Charlie Stabler says:

    Can anyone tell me where to get this exact buck converter? I need adjustable current and voltage, all the ones I have found only have the 1 potentiometer.

  • Jeff Bluejets says:

    Think you will find that when you initially set the output to 8.4V via the multimeter and then added the battery, unit would read battery voltage which would be lower.
    Adjust the charge current to maximum, as the voltage rises to the set level, unit senses and trips the charge as Lithium normally require a voltage dependant charge NOT constant current.

  • OneEye Monster says:

    Can I install it between the controller board and motor…of a R/C Car???
    such as…if I use a 9 V battery pack..boot it up to 12 v out put..

    I know how it would work with Li io…on the IN put…between battery
    and controller …the voltage dont match on a lot of R'C cars

    it'll also be great in the TX….this way you can 1 or 2 cell Li on
    Instead of whatever the hell different TX Voltage uses.
    It probably safer..The TX isnt drawing a lof of amps…it's needs
    proper voltage or what's appliable for that especific TX..
    Im sick and tired of all these damn AA and AAA and even 9V batteies
    I have to used or different TX …Using different size and qty.

    I have a lot of 18650 i harvest from old laptops…
    Just make packs using 2S li ion..then step it up or down

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